Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
